Throw the Corsets in the Lake *****

The Anuradhapura Hotel

Anuradhapura, Ceylon

Shang dear,

We’ve been flitting around such a lot and so suddenly lately I can hardly remember all that has happened.  After several lazy days in Kandy, just sitting on our little vine covered porch, and reading and talking and dreaming and occasionally walking around the lake, we set forth for Nuwara Eliya – 7000 ft. and lovely and cool, but it poured cats and dogs, so father didn’t like it. 

Adelaide and I put on old dresses and went out walking one whole afternoon till we were soaked to the skin, but feeling fine.  It was the first rain I had seen for so long I loved it, and should have enjoyed a week or more of it, for there were lovely little winding paths and dense jungles to explore, but we stayed only one day and then came back to Kandy, expecting to have some more lazy times, but a telegram was waiting for us saying we could get rooms in the Anuradhapura hotel, so we left in a rush, and now will be here a few days. 

This is a wonderful place and I am surprised not more is known about it.  At least I wouldn’t have known anything if I weren’t out here in these regions.  It is the ruins of an ancient city dating back to 300 B.C. and said to have been the largest in the world, boasting over twenty million inhabitants all packed in like sardines.  Very little has been done in the way of excavation or restoration, but it is all intensely interesting and most picturesque being covered with vines and all sorts of tropical growth. 

This leaf is from the sacred Bo tree, the oldest historical tree known.  Ever since it was planted 2400 years ago, it has been guarded by an unbroken succession of priests – and Buddha himself sat under it to teach.

Mrs. Gillis and Dorothy haven’t wanted to go any of these places, so are in Columbo having clothes made, etc.  and Adelaide is now my sister.  She is just as much a crank about exercise and physical culture, etc. as I am so we have lots in common.  I’ve almost decided to abandon my corsets.  Down deep in my heart I never have approved of them, but not long ago I read a dreadful discourse on that subject, and now I’m wondering if I have strength of mind to really throw them in the lake.  For a whole week I’ve gone without, and am doing all sorts of new exercises and hope in a month or two to be as hard as iron around my waist and hips. 

I’ve just finished two fine books and wonder if you’ve read them.  Price Collier’s “The West in the East” and “England and the English”.  If you haven’t, do get them for they would be fine read aloud, especially the latter you would enjoy for he is very fair, states facts rather than criticizes and has such a “pat” way of expressing things we all know, but I at least had never thought them out so clearly. 

Never in my life have I seen so much tea as is grown on this island.  Everywhere you look the hills are covered with straight, regular rows of tea bushes, and the whole place dotted with men and women pickers in bright colored head dress and baskets on their back.

Later – didn’t get this finished, for we suddenly decided to come back to Kandy, where the hotel is splendid.  We had  enough of  mosquitos, lowlands, etc. at Anuradhapura – the only means of transportation being bullock carts – little, springless, two wheeled affairs with palm leaf hood[s] and so called trotting bullocks, but from the strenuous clucking, prodding, tail twisting and yelling that the driver did I don’t think the trotting was natural.

We shall probably stay here till Friday, go down to Columbo, and I want to have a tailor make me some sort of a silk dress or suit, if he can do it in so short a time, for on Sunday we sail for Cairo.  Father seems awfully tired.  I think it is the reaction after our strenuous times in India, for here there is practically no real sight seeing.  So I’m urging him to stay here as long as we can, for he likes it so much better than Columbo, and my dress I can go without if we don’t get there in time. 

There is a man here has the dearest little pet leopard just five months old.  Its head and paws are still too big for it, and it is as playful as a kitten – chews up everything in sight, but is perfectly gentle and lets anyone take it in their arms.

Adelaide and I are off for a long walk now before it gets dark.

Heaps of Love,

Alice

January 26, 1914