Bombay: the Real Destination *****
Taj Mahal Palace Hotel1
Bombay
Telegraphic Address
“Palace-Bombay”
Sallie dearest:
I must write today not only because it is Christmas, but to tell you I love you and how happy I was to get your letter and Shang’s that I found waiting here for me.
We got here a day sooner than we expected as we couldn’t stand Ahmedebad. It was an awful place – dreadful hotel and nothing to see, and now I wish we had a month here instead of a little over a week. All through India I’ve had Bombay in mind as the real destination for this part of the trip anyhow, and now we have [let] down completely and are not seeing one single “sight” and you can’t imagine how good it seems for we have been going as strenuously as anyone could – packing up nearly every day – getting in late at night by train and up early next morning to set forth to see everything.
Now I feel that we have “done” India. There is nothing more I care to see, and it is now time to take a steamer in order to straighten out in my mind all we’ve seen. However we are by no means resting here very strenuous, only in another direction. There has been something on hand nearly every minute, and I am trying in between teas and dinners, etc. to find a few clothes.
Sallie, I’m a sight. If you could see me, you’d disown me but the funny part is I don’t seem to care. In a vague way I want some pretty things, but when it comes to the actual getting, I’d rather go without. It’s such an effort. Mrs. C. and I did get to work and tried to weed out our things and sent a big basket full of dresses, shoes etc. to some missionaries.
Major Dickinson of the English army and who was so nice to us in Calcutta is now here and put father up at the Yacht Club, which is one of the loveliest clubs I’ve ever seen, right on the water and beautifully equipped. I go over often in the mornings, when no one is around to disturb my peace of mind and try to catch up on the papers and magazines. We’ve had dinner there several times, and tea every day. Major D. is one of the most attractive men I’ve ever known, and has heaps of money. He had us to dinner at his apartment Christmas Eve and four other officers, and wherever he is, a party is sure to be successful. He had heard me mention some Russian ice cream I liked, so thought he would have it for me and mixed the cream and strawberries with his own hands at the risk of losing all caste with his servants (one thing you must all consider out here). The cook insisted that it wouldn’t freeze unless he made it another way, but Major D. clung to his own idea, assuring him it would come in like a rock. We heard all this tale during dinner, so eagerly awaited results and imagine his dismay when it did come in resembling soup. However the blazing plum pudding and holly made up for the failure.
Later – was interrupted so couldn’t finish till now.
Christmas dinner here at the hotel was very gay. The dining room beautifully decorated, good music and menu a mile long. We had Major D., some others and the Gillis and gave each a cunning little brass peacock for a favor. For place cards we cut silly pictures from magazines and stuck them on cards with characteristic remarks of each person, so that they had to guess where they sat. Father’s had a man with umbrella and coat tails flying, tearing along at breakneck speed, clock at 3:30 “Next train 5:00. We’ll have to hustle, Kiddie, or we’ll never make it.”
Mrs. C. has been having awful nightmares of late and shrieks wildly in her sleep for me so I used that idea for hers, etc. Each one recognized their little weaknesses and easily found the proper seat. Lots of other foolishness, so we had a good time, but I thought all day what a glorious time we shall have next year!
Father gave me a very odd Hindu ring with two sapphires and little dangling pearls, and a lovely big book on India, taking in every place we’ve been. Mrs. C. a lovely, very old, Indian painting and a little silver filagree thing that the Mohammedan women carry their eye blackening in. I had a ring made for her with an old, small gold coin – Hindu. The coin turns over and is better done than I dared hope for, but she seems very much pleased with it. Also a big, metal bowl from Peshawar that she wanted. For father I got in Siam a stick pin with a gold tical at the top (it is a little gold ball with some characters engraved and is a piece of money worth about four dollars. He got silver ticals for buttons in his white coat, so I got some cuff links to match for his birthday. Mrs. C. gave him a lovely old painting of Akbar, who was a famous emperor here three hundred years ago, and son of Shah Jehan who built the Taj Mahal. Akbar did much to beautify all India, and has put up elaborately carved structures all over the country, so father was very much interested in him and always talking about him. I gave the Gillis each an interesting old piece of brass, and they all gave me lovely things. So you see we had quite a celebration after all.
We’ve been to the Admiral’s to lunch today. I am going motoring with the Major now and later we all meet for tea at the Club, and then we go to the Consul’s tonight to dinner. This is a sample of all our days, and although as you know I don’t like such a program as a rule, it seems rather nice for a while just now.
Lover writes that Mrs. Pierce, wife of Major P. in Tien Tsin is just going to Canton, so he is having her get a whole set of the real Canton china, a dozen extra dinner plates, punch bowl and everything. Isn’t that fine. When I was in Tien Tsin Mrs. Pierce asked me to get her some, so Lover and I selected it and he took it back to her. Isn’t it funny that now she is getting ours for us. They are having it packed and it won’t be opened till Lover brings it to me.
Oh, Angel, I was in an awful state. Mrs. C. was really hurt about Mr. Wallenberg’s acting as he did, and when I got here and found telegrams still begging to come for Xmas and motor us through southern India, I pictured dreadful times trying to sooth her, amuse and entertain Mr. W. and keep father happy as well. It would have been dreadful, I know although I can’t understand her point of view, for I certainly didn’t set about definitely to take him away from her. I didn’t even want him, but I did want him to fall in love with her. Then all would have been fine. However after all my worrying and wondering in silence a telegram came a few days ago saying that there had been a bad smash up with some of his oil wells up in Assam, so he had to go up and couldn’t meet us. I wanted to shout for joy, for although it could have been a beautiful trip, I know under the circumstances, it would have been very trying for poor me.
Now we shall go on prosaically but cheerfully by train. Don’t think Mrs. C. has been mean about it, for she has been just as sweet and agreeable as possible, but I know down deep she was cut to the heart as she once confessed to me; although she said she was dreadfully ashamed to have such a selfish feeling.
Father has been ill in bed- tummy knocked out and nothing to keep him going in the way of sights – just the way he is every Xmas at home- but I’m glad to say is better now, although still not very well.
Oceans of love,
Alice
1 In business 2009 http://www.tajhotels.com/Palace/The%20Taj%20Mahal%20Palace%20&%20Tower,MUMBAI/default.htm
