Quite a Gay Party
Hong Kong Hotel
A.B.C. Code 5th Edition
Tel. Address “Kremlin”
Telephone 32
c/o U.S. Consul, Singapore, Staights Settlement
Hong Kong
Mary dear:
Last week from Shanghai I sent you a lot of stuff to keep for me – about sixteen packages I think. We have a P.O. there, so I thought I would just send them and risk the duty. I hated to burden Sallie with so many little things, but sent her a lot too to take in for me. I am crazy to know how they get through. There’s nothing so very valuable, but I don’t want any lost. Got things badly mixed up for I didn’t address them till all were wrapped up, so I suppose you will get half of our things, and the Angel the other half, but we can get it all straightened out when we come home. I hope the things won’t bother you. There’s a little Irish lace that I thought would be nice for baby1 things, now that you are in that line, but I couldn’t send much as everyone told me the duty is so heavy on it.
On account of the Revolution there is piles of loot, and the men want to sell it right off, so they won’t get caught with it. Hence it is very cheap, and if I could have some way found it all magically transported home I should have got more, but couldn’t be bothered with it.
I can’t remember whether I wrote you from Tientsin or not. Anyhow did I tell you that the later part of June when [we] were on a little Japanese liner on the Inland Sea and stopped for coal at a tiny out of the way village, who should suddenly appear but my Lover. He had got two months leave to come to Japan to see me, got in the day before, and wired all over Japan and Korea trying to find me and just caught us there. Then we were together all through Manchuria, Port Arthur, Mukden, Tientsin, Peking, Hankow, down the Yangtze River, at Shanghai a week, five days on the steamer coming here and now we have one more glorious week here. Then he must go back. It has all been perfect, and I dread the time when we will be separate. Can you imagine anything more romantic than trotting around all these places, planning, buying things for our house, etc?
I told you, didn’t I, about Mrs. Chandler? She is with us too, so we are quite a gay party. While we were at Peking the Miss Liggetts had us out with them for five days. Their college is twelve miles out by ricksha. It was an old temple, and all the buildings are the same, but of course furnished more conveniently but most picturesque with the many courtyards, old walks, lotus beds, etc. The teachers have lovely little homes, and as most of them were away Miss L. put the men next door to sleep, and had Mrs. C. and me with her and her sister, who is awfully nice. From there we went on donkeys to the Ming tombs, Summer Palace, etc. so had a fine time. They have planned to stay three years more.
The experience we went through in Shanghai with the fighting was all very interesting, but I must say it is a bit nerve racking – no one gets much sleep. Things are so upset that you feel under a strain all the time not knowing at what minute a shell will crash through the wall, so I am quite relieved to be away, but am afraid we’ll get more here, for this morning the news came that there is serious fighting around Canton, so that perhaps we can’t go there.
I sent some of those things to you in newspapers to bluff the customs, and now am worried for fear they’ll confiscate them, so do tell me what happens and let me know if there is any duty and how much. That shawl arrangement you want is Japanese, so I’m afraid I can’t get just what you want here, but will see what I can do. How I should love to be with you now and sew and fuss around. Indeed I do remember how we put out tomato[e] plants. My diary is such a comfort, for as I write each day I look up the page and see what happened one, two and three years ago.
Oceans of love for you both,
August 6, 1913 Alice
1 Mary is expecting Sarah Stewart Hinckley
Extra, Extra
Norddeutscher Lloyd, Bremen
Dampfer “Yorck”
Sallie dearest:
I suppose father has told you about the excitement we have been having. My how hot it was coming down the old Yangtze River. We nearly died, but didn’t see a bit of fighting. Everyone said we could never get past Hankow, but all was serene as a day in June. However, in Shanghai we made up for lost time. You know when it comes right down to business, the Chinese are a most cowardly lot, so during the day there was nothing doing, but every night things were terribly stirred up. Here it is such a vital matter, and no one talks of anything but the war. We wait anxiously for the “extras” to see where the different armies are, what their plans are, etc. and then every night after dinner in Shanghai everyone in the hotel would go up to the roof garden, and from there we had a wonderful view of all that happened. It always lasted till about three or four in the morning, so we had very little sleep. They used a great many shells with “tracers”, that is a lighted tail to show where they fall, so it was very spectacular. The firing and noise were terrible, and of course so exciting that we couldn’t go to bed for fear something would happen that we’d miss, or that would be so serious that we’d have to flee to the consulate. One night the shells whizzed right over our heads so near we could hear them sing as they went by. We would run for shelter and then decide it was worse there in case the wall would be smashed in on us. Then run out to the open again till we were nearly frantic. One thing I shall never understand is why we weren’t killed. Some landed in the garden and blew several people into atoms. Everything was unsettled and stirred up, and although it was an unusual experience and nice to have, that and the heat combined were about all my nerves could stand. Lover was of course thrilled by it all, and wanted to go out in command of one of the Chinese companies, but I wouldn’t let him.
This steamer is a beauty, and I think Lover and I are enjoying it more than any of our time spent together. We have only two weeks more before he goes back, and I can’t bear to think of his leaving. He is still begging me to marry him in Hongkong and go back to Tientsin with him, but I shan’t do it.
In Shanghai I had a couple of thin white morning dresses made, and Mrs. C. had several cotton crepes. We have a post office in Shanghai, so I sent a lot of my things to Mary. Thought that was better than burdening you with them all, and thought I would risk the duty. I did them up in very small packages, and am going to send you some from Hongkong. I didn’t decide this till they were all wrapped up, so probably you will get half of one thing, and Mary the other half, but we’ll get it all straightened out when I get home. The fighting is so serious around Canton I’m doubtful about our getting there, but hope for the best. Yesterday we stopped at [Fuchan?] and expect to reach Hongkong in two days.
Heaps of love,
August 4, 1913 Alice
Rush for Shelter
(Central Stores Ltd, Proprietors)
Shanghai, China
Telgraphic Adress: “Palace”
A1, A, B, C 4th & 5th
Lieber’s, Western Union Telegr. Code
Telephone No. 39
Mary dear:
Am sending you some things to keep for me. I hope they won’t be a bother, and if there is any duty I’ll send the money right away, but there shouldn’t be. Life is most exciting and very nerve racking on account of the war. Every night we have heard the firing here and seen scores of fires all over the city. Every evening after dinner we go up to the roof garden to watch it. Last night it was terrible. The shells kept flying right over our heads and many dropped in the garden, killing a number of people. We would rush for shelter, and then decide it would be worse to have the roof burn in on us, so would go out again. There was a lot of shooting into the foreign concessions, so we really don’t feel safe any where. All is serene during the day, but at night we don’t sleep at al. This may be my last!!!
Heaps of love for you and Arthur.
Alice
July 29, 1913
Address c/o U.S. Consul General, Singapore, Straight Settlement
Can of Peas
Grand Hotel des Wagons – Lts Ltd.
Tel. Address: Wagonlits Code: 5th Edition A, B, C
Manager Wilh Trendel
Peking
Sallie dearest:
Today some mail came that had been sent home from Hongkong. I can’t imagine what made the consul do such a trick. I hope that it won’t happen again, for it’s long enough between letters anyhow without some being lost. Well, since my last epistle we’ve had a busy time.
On Tuesday went out to Ching Hua College to stay with the Liggets. The only way to get there is by ricksha, and it’s twelve miles, so takes a couple of hours, but the country is beautiful – very green and fine farms fourishing everywhere. The college used to be an old temple, but now the buildings have been furnished more conveniently, so serve the purpose perfectly and it is all most picturesque; all the walls, the many courtyards, lotus beds, bright colored paintings or frescoes and green and yellow tiled roofs. The teachers have the cutest little houses and Miss L. has furnished theirs so artistically – lovely Tientsin rugs, beautiful linens and carved furniture and wonderful old brocades and silks. Most of the people are away now, so they could use the house next door where they put father and another man that went out with us. They have two Chinamen – neither speaking a bit of English, but Miss Emma Sue speaks Chinese very well, so they manage beautifully. I should feel very proud if I spoke as well as she can. Next year she’s going to really study it hard, she says.
Next day we took the train for an hour to Nankow, then chairs for eight hours in the broiling sun to the Ming tombs, which are wonderful. They are rather run down now, but one can see what they used to be like – the coloring, carving, etc. That night we stayed at the only hotel – a funny little Chinese one. They brought us some chicken, and I asked if there were any vegetable. The proprietor was hovering over us, so he asked “You likee green pea?” I said yes, and the next thing I knew he was unlocking the safe in the hall and produced a can of peas. I thought oh! It will take too long if they aren’t ready, and said so, and do you know by the time I got that one sentence out of my mouth the boy whisked a dish of steaming peas before me. I was so surprised that I went out, and with wild gestures got the old cook to show me how he did it, and found it very simple. He just poured boiling water into the dish, dumped in the peas, and poured off the water!
Next morning we took a freight train at 5:30 up the Kalgon pass where the Great Wall was most needed and so is double in many places. We walked around there for a while, and then came back on donkeys and got to Ching Hua again at noon. Went to the Summer Palace of the old empress on donkeys. The native saddle consists of a quilt tied around the donkey, so you may imagine how comfortable it is, but we went miles on them. Came back Saturday, and certainly enjoyed our whole visit. They were so hospitable, and wanted us to stay much longer. Miss L. wanted to know all about you and Shang and wondered if you couldn’t come out here this fall via Siberia.
I was so surprised to hear that Lib W. had married that Mr. Grabaum. I think she’s much nicer than he! They are crazy about Japanese things, so Mrs. Chandler is sending them a stunning white embroidered silk guaze for an evening gown, and a delicately carved ivory pendant that she had got for herself. I am going to wait to get them something in Southern China. They leave next week for two months in Japan, and then come back for three years more here.
Lover comes today! And we start tomorrow for Hankow and the Yangtze, if there’s not too much fighting; they are blowing up towns, killing hundreds of people, and everything is terribly stirred up, but I hope we can go. If not we’ll take a steamer to Chefoo, but will wait till tomorrow to decide. This may be the last words you’ll ever have from me, but you know I love you bushels. Give my love to the Farrows. Had a letter from Mrs. Vallance in N.Z. saying she had sent Shang some very special seeds.
July 20, 1913 Alice
First Lieutenants Live as Millionaires *****
Astor House Hotel Ltd., Tientsin
Tel. Addr.: “Astor” Tientsin
A.B.C. 4th and 5th Edition
A.1 and Western Union Codes Used
Sallie dear:
My last letter was so much talky-talky that I had no time to give you any news of the country or what we had been doing, but old China is more or less the same from top to bottom, although seems a little more poverty stricken up through Manchuria. All the men still wear ques, and very nearly all the women have their feet bound – especially the working classes. They have a most remarkable way of dressing their hair. This is not a bit exaggerated. They have either black or gold wire frames that they brush their hair over till it’s so smooth it looks like cloth. [sketch] The top arrangement is hollow and they usually have artificial flowers or gold pins stuck around this. It seems so funny to see even the coolie women wearing filthy rags and pulling a heavy wagon, but with her hair dressed most elaborately. I had written to Miss Ligget from Japan, and found a letter in Mukden wanting me to come and stay with her and her sister while we were in Peking, but since Lover and Mrs. C[handler] will be there, don’t believe I can – however shall be more than glad to see her and will tell you all about her in my next epistle. We didn’t like Mukden much. The hotel was poor, and aside from the palace and Imperial tomb, there was nothing to see or do, so we stayed only three days, then spent a day at Shankaikwan where the end of the Great Wall comes down to the sea, and finally got here four days ago. I want to tell you about this place, for I doubt if you know because it is only two years that it has been or meant so much to us. That is, for only two years have we had troops here. Now there are about thirty officers and two thirds of the regiment. The French, English, Russians and Germans also have troops and officers and ten different nations have concessions here, which means many high ranking officials, so you may imagine what a cosmopolitan place it is, and how many different people you mingle with and all the varied points of view to be learned. The climate is wonderful – cold in winter, very dry and clear, but now I must admit it is boiling. Living is so easy that it hardly seems true. All the year round they can buy 150 fresh eggs for fifty cents. Everyone has at least five or six servants, an automobile and half a dozen racing horses to say nothing of the polo, swimming, racing clubs etc. that they belong to. Everything is in proportion. The first lieutenants even live as millionaires would at home. They have nice houses, turn everything over to their “coolies” and not only enjoy life and live at the top notch, but also save money. Now that seems hard to believe, but it is true. Dear me, I hope we hold on to this place. I mean, continue having troops here for I should love to be stationed here some time. There are opportunites that are found no where else in the world, for no where else are so many nationalities thrown in to the relationship that they are here. I should like to perfect my German and study a couple of other languages. Some of our soldiers are even studying Russian and Chinese! Everyone loves it and dreads the time when their three years tour here will be over. Lover is to be stationed here till Christmas time. I had an idea that since I was engaged all my gay times were over, but never had such strenuous times as I have every minute here. There isn’t one other American girl in Tientsin – doesn’t that seem strange – but about fourteen bachelors, all of them friends of Enoch’s, and many of them classmates. We decided not to tell any of them that there was anything between us, but they all knew it right away. They hadn’t seen him for a good while, and of course were interested in me on his account, so started in to give me a good time, and have certainly done it. Have been out to lunch and dinner every day, out motoring whenever there was nothing else on hand, always to a band concert or something in the evening. All the dinners, etc. consist of eight or ten men and poor me all alone, but they are all so nice, and I have heaps of fun. I love doing things with a crowd of men. They tease him a lot, and keep telling me jokes about him at West Point, girls he’s flirted with, etc. and it’s all been just one gay whirl that I shall never forget. Enoch gave me my ring when we first arrived and it is lovely. Just a solitaire diamond, but a beautifully clear stone. I had a hard time deciding whether I wanted that or a miniature West Point class ring, but thought it would be too heavy to wear with a wedding ring. It is more unusual and very good looking, but I’m glad now I have this. What do you think? Wasn’t it nice we were here for the Fourth and could celebrate in real true American style. They had a ball game, to which all were invited and most elaborate refreshments were served. Each nationality entertains all the others that way. During the game an aeroplane alighted in the middle of the field with a French aviator who had just flown down from Peking to see the festivities. Some of the bachelors gave a lovely dinner that night for us, and in the midst of it a Chinese policeman walked in with the news that the house was on fire. Some lanterns on an upper porch had caused it, but not much damage was done. Everyone dines at 8:30. Even here at the hotel dinner isn’t served till then, so nothing really starts afterwards till ten and then you can figure out yourself the time we get to bed, but in a way it is much more sensible, for until eight in the evening it is so hot you can hardly move. We expect Mrs. Chandler on Tuesday, will meet her here and about Thursday go up to Peking. That will give us ten days here and about as much as I can stand at one stretch. We’ll then have about two weeks in Peking. Lover has applied for a month’s leave, will come up during our last week there, and then we’ll all go down through China together. He was completely worn out. He’d had so many responsible duties in Baquio that really he was on the verge of breaking down. That’s why they let him come up to be with us so readily, so I’m glad he’ll have that month before pitching in here. I lost one of those lapis lazuli pendants from my chain. It dropped off somewhere in Mukden, pearls and all and broke my heart, for I can never get another to match. Goodbye, angel, I’m longing to hear from you all about your leaving home, the trip across, and every little thing, for I love you so dearly.
July 6, 1913 Alice
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