Elevator and Electric Lights!
Hotel Bristol
Proprrs J. Djirah & G. Hadjaras
Constantinople
Chauffage Central, Ascenseur, Lumiere Electrique
Telephone 501
Constantinople, le March 24, 1914
Sallie dearest:
We found lots of mail waiting for us here – a letter to father and one to me from you, which cheered me up a lot. Just the other day I was thinking of what I would do when I got home. I’ve never been there long enough to really get interested in carrying out any plans or doing anything really worth while, so I resolved to do anything I was asked to. I mean in the way of helping to train the youngsters for Christmas, etc. I’ve always backed out before, but I’ve decided it’s best not to. So suppose the Women’s Club business comes under that heading, and if you think I can do what they want me to, all right. I accept the honor in fear and trembling. Next summer, Angel dear, in fact all the rest of my life with you I’m going to lean entirely on you, and whatever you say goes, so don’t bother to ask my opinion about anything. Just judge for yourself, and be sure I’ll be of the same mind.
It’s dreadful to make a reputation for oneself, and then have to live up to it. I seem to always impress people as being awfully independent – especially did Mrs. Chandler think so – and the result was that I had to take the lead in everything, manage and arrange all our affairs, and decide every question. I suppose it is because most dependent people will look for help and support from anyone or anything, while I center all my weight on you.
You are the only one to whom I can give myself up completely, and know that my soul would be safer with you than even myself. I have thought for myself and have had my own way undisputed so long that I’m dead tired of it, and think it will be a good thing for me to walk the chalk line a while. So I’m at you feet after June 12th to do your biding whatever it may be.
Such a lovely letter from Mary came in this mail with the picture of her and Sara, who is perfectly adorable, and I’m all the more crazy to see her – oh! she is sweet. They are here on my desk now, and Mary looks as happy as a queen. Mrs. Wiegenstein just sent us such a cute picture of [Don] taken in his little baseball suit. He is two and a half years old now, and is a perfect whale. Another letter was from Mrs. Farrow begging us to visit them before they left in April, but it is quite out of the question, as we are planning to be there not before early May. I am so sorry, for I should love to see them all again, and should like to have had father know them and see their beautiful home.
Lover is not only having his French tutor, but he and a Frenchman have taken an apartment together, and are going to keep house. They have excellent servants and are very cozy and much happier than boarding. They speak French all the time, so I suppose he will land home with quite an accent. He’ll have to come down to earth though, before he reaches me, for I hate anything French – accent, language, customs, manners, people and all! And love the English, whom he heartily dislikes.
I wonder if you know that Capt. Fullam is now in Annapolis, Superintendent of the Naval Academy. There are loads of Navy people spending the winter in Rome, Florence, etc. whom father hopes to see, if we happen to go to Italy – which I doubt, unless it is very cold in Vienna.
I hate to seem blasé and very much traveled, but to you I must say that the Orient has spoiled me for Europe, although I shall try not to appear so to others. I was in just this same frame of mind ten years ago when we came to Italy from China. There, as in all those Eastern countries, the people are happy or at least determined to make the best of their lot, while here there is always fighting, noise, horses falling and the drivers beating them, fast women and dissipated men. Apparently everyone struggling against each other and all in vain. Then, too, I think no clothes in the world look so disgusting when they are ragged and dirty as ours or Europeans. Of course in the tropics the people wear so few that they are almost always at least decent, but even in China and Manchuria and Japan the very lowest class look far superior to the poverty stricken around here.
This morning we visited the famous Mosque of St. Sophia, and it is certainly well worth seeing, and one that I shall never forget. The hotels here are very poor, considering the size and importance of Constantinople, but I suppose better ones will come in time. The harbor and entrance here are beautiful – the most imposing I’ve ever seen and I think surpass the much-talked-of Sydney harbor.
Goodnight. I love you bussels, and here’s a kiss.
Alice
A Funny Thing Happened in Jerusalem
Khedivial Mail Line
Greece-Turkey Service
K.M.S. Osmanieh
March 22, 1914
Angel dear:
We hope to reach Constantinople this afternoon, where there will be mail from you I hope, but we can’t get it till tomorrow as the Consulate will be closed on Sunday.
We’ve been very fortunate this whole week in having quite smooth weather, for all around here it is generally bad and frequently the steamers can’t land, but have to carry their passengers on to the next port.
Athens of course we found wonderful, and I agree more strongly than ever with all who say Grecian architecture excels all others. Even the ruins are beautiful, and the whole place is most interesting.
We spent a day in Smyrna, but there is little there to see except some ancient Roman aqueducts, and of course all the figs and packing houses.
Such a funny thing happened in Jerusalem. The consul there is an ex-West Point man and would have graduated in Lover’s class, but left the year before to go into the consular service. He asked me if I knew any 1908 men there, and mentioned a lot in Panama and TienTsin I know, and finally hit upon Lover. I replied in a disinterested, indifferent way that I had met him in the Phillipines, and then he launched forth into quite a discourse saying he was a sort of paragon and all kinds of nice things about him – fortunately – for if he had said things that weren’t so nice, it would have been rather embarrassing when he found out the truth. He showed me lots of pictures (class, athletics, etc.) of him, and I never gave him a hint even that I knew him very well. He was living at the same hotel, so we saw him all the time and he was awfully good to us.
It is getting colder now every day as we get farther north, but I love it. Father is crazy about playing “Rum” and wants me to play with him all the time.
Oceans of love,
Alice
Lately I’ve Put my Faith in Camels
Mena House Hotel
Pyramids, Cairo
Telegrams,
“Mena, Cairo”.
Dear Angel:
We have now experienced all that goes with desert life, and I like it less every minute, or rather dislike it more. Suppose father told you about the hot wind from the desert we had for two days before leaving Assouan, where everyone simply shut themselves up tight in the hotel. I finally got restless and decided I must set forth for a little walk, but couldn’t stand it for long. I felt just as though I were walking through an oven, and there was hardly a soul on the streets. Even the animals were all in the river trying to keep cool.
Coming down in the boat we had a dreadful sand storm, and it has been raging ever since we reached here. They usually last three, six, or nine days and we are all hoping this one will wear itself out tonight. It’s quieter out now, and my room boy told me the worst was over. All the windows and doors are shut tight, but even then the sand shifts in and the air is filled with dust.
We are staying out here now, literally under the shadows of the Pyramids and every evening walk over to sit by the Sphinx and watch the glorious shades of the sand and distant mountains at sun set. This is a lovely hotel. Lots of English people come here for the winter, and play golf and tennis and gaze at the Pyramids. Tomorrow we are going on an all day trip by camel across the desert to Sakarrah, where there are some wonderful old tombs.
You say you hope I have got everything I want. I suppose you’ll be surprised and ashamed of me for growing so indifferent, but I haven’t bought a thing since India, and then got only some inexpensive jewelry for fancy dress balls. The very sight of a shop, especially filled with all the trash these are, fairly makes me ill, and I never even look inside anymore. Sometimes when one of these insolent natives stands out in front and urges me to “have a look”, I feel as though I could kill him and never feel a shiver – oh! They are so tiresome, and I’m so “fed-up” with it all.
I really have nothing in my trunks except a lot of old clothes, and suppose when I get home I’ll regret missing all my opportunities, but then I think of the junk up in the third floor that came from “furrin” parts and I’m thankful I shan’t add to the collection. I feel too that when I have a house of my own, I shall want everything so strictly American that it will look like one of those Gimble ads. for a 59 piece set of china or golden oak parlor set. However when I reach Europe I hope I’ll be more enthusiastic, but even then don’t know of anything I want. If there is anything that you or Shang saw last summer and have since wished for, do tell me and I should love to get it. Giving vent to my feelings so forcefully as I just have wasn’t very tactful coming before my offer to get you the things, but you know what I mean. The things you would want in Europe are far different from these so-called curiosities that claim everyone’s attention here.
I did manage to get some clothes though. You see, I’ve been wearing nothing but white for so long and had nothing else, so got a suit, plain; a dark blue satin afternoon dress that I like immensely, and a simple little beaded pink chiffon evening dress trimmed with blue. The styles are so awe-inspiring and ridiculous, I should be ashamed of myself if I attempted keeping up with them, so I’m quite content with very simple affairs.
There are two very quaint English maiden ladies stopping here whom we were with several times in India. They are most amusing, and don’t seem to mind my laughing at them. It was so nice to meet them here again.
Did I tell you that the Gillis’s have gone to Con. (I’ll be using Constantinople such a lot from now on that I must abbreviate it) and we shall meet them there the last of this month. It seems so queer without them, for we were like one family. I miss them dreadfully.
Oh! Sallie, when I see such a lot of horrid men and again such a lot of husbands in whom I can’t see one grain of attractiveness, I feel sorry that their wives can’t have a man like Lover to love. This, I know, sounds silly and “what they all say”. Also since I feel that he must seem loveable to almost everyone, but I really do feel that way more strongly every day. Then I try, as a disinterested outsider, to compare him with other men, and he always outranks them to such an absurd degree that it isn’t worth thinking about. Oh! I do hope you’ll approve of him and not only be willing, for me to marry him, but be really eager for me to.
Mr. Petrie bought a parrot today. Imagine lugging it around and all the way to England. It’s guaranteed to speak Arabic, French and English, but hasn’t uttered a sound since they got it.
I almost forgot to tell you how expert I am on a camel – can ride alone without a boy, only one rein with which I can now skillfully steer him around the narrow streets and on the desert keep him on a gallop or trot. Father too is fine on his, but I never thought I should be so brave. They growl and gurgle in a most terrifying way, but never stumble and fall the way every donkey I’ve been [on] has done. So lately I’ve put my faith in camels.
We sail on the 8th for Jaffa and go by train from there to Jerusalem.
Oceans of love,
Alice
March 6, 1914
Rameses
Hotel Du Nil
Luxor
Adresse telegraphique
NILHOTEL – LUXOR
Le February 18, 1914
Angel dear:
I’ve been longing to have a nice long talk with you, for there’s so much I want to say, but in Cairo I hadn’t time to sit down a minute to write you. It is a most dreadful place. Shepheard’s Hotel1 which is so famous and so popular was simply jambed – hundreds of Americans and I believe every living soul on our boat stayed there, so every time I’d start upstairs someone I knew would come along and want me to sit down and talk, or go out somewhere, or do something else.
The streets were crowded with dirty, insolent tourist-trained natives getting in our way, trying to sell hideous spangled scarves, scarabs, etc. and yelling and squabbling. The camels, horses, children and automobiles all jumbled together, and in short the most awful confusion imaginable.
Mrs. Stewart, wife of our vice consul in Calcutta and who (I have always forgotten to tell you) was before she married Rebecca Ross of Washington- her father was from McVeaghtown (?) and also was about engaged to Mr. Harris. You remember him, don’t you, out at the Naval Station, a pay master. Well she wrote to a friend of hers back here, an Englishman, to look us up and he certainly did, and was most attentive. Also the son of our consul in Java is here and he too has been only too eager to do things. In fact, between them I was kept so on the jump that I had to just simply refuse to do things. I was so bored and tired. The whole place got on my nerves more than I ever thought was possible.
You see it is the first “civilized” place we’ve been for so long that I was simply amazed at the clothes I saw. I realize that here the women were even more extreme than usual. At least I hope they aren’t as bad at home, for I was ashamed to be classed as a woman, if they are a fair representation. I don’t think I’m an old maid, although I don’t voice the opinion of the majority, but to me it was distressing to know that any woman would dare to dress as extravagantly and exaggeratedly as some of them did, and for no other purpose and aim than to parade the hotel lobby and attract attention. Goodness, what is this world coming to? Perhaps it wouldn’t seem so dreadful to you, because you’ve been seeing it gradually coming, but it burst upon me so suddenly I haven’t recovered yet, and hope I never shall.
The hotel itself is really beautiful – all sorts of Turkish and Arabic rooms, wonderful hangings and rugs and everything most luxurious, but everywhere was the spirit of unrest, and I could hardly wait to get away from all those dances, dinners and silly talking. Adelaide is of the same turn of mind, and she was nearly crazy, and we spent our time the last few days crawling out of engagements and making excuses. However, enough of that.
You’ll be thinking I’ve turned into an awful snob, but truly Sallie dear, I was so annoyed and worn out that suddenly my voice left me right in the middle of a sentence, and for three days I could hardly whisper decently, but as soon as I left it all and came up here, I was all right and never had even a sign of a cold or sore throat.
We went out to see the Sphinx and Pyramids, rode camels and enjoyed it all, but I think I’ll be more impressed when I get home and have time to think it all over. My mind now is fairly numb, and I know I don’t “take in” half that I should. The trouble is besides having seen so much we are all (except father) spoiled by India. There the natives seem worthwhile. They are a fine race compared with these. Color everywhere, and a feeling of more or less thriftiness, while here they are doing things and living just as they did 4000 years BC. They wear layers of dirty, black, ugly draperies and are slow, lazy and stupid. Certainly not people one should like to live amongst.
We’ve been up here several days and it is much more attractive than Cairo. We wanted to come up by boat, but the Nile is lower than it’s been for a hundred years, and the boats all stick every few minutes on a sand bar, and everyone must get out and push. So we decided we’d better take the train. It’s just a night’s trip, and here we’ve been busy every minute. Every day we have done about twenty miles in the desert by donkey back to see various sights. Walking fills up the afternoon, and at sunset we take a row on the Nile to watch the glorious colors and lights on the sands. It is wonderful how much a place that apparently has but one color can change, for all around us is nothing but sand and hills of sand colored rocks – except a tiny patch of green where the town is situated – but really it scarcely ever looks the same, and the camels and Arabs in their flowing robes lend the picturesque touch necessary.
The king’s and queen’s tombs are perfectly wonderful, and how the archaeologists ever found them, I can’t understand. Either a [low/long] stairway or incline leading down into the ground, many chambers and long, twisting passageways leading and turning in all directions to put the excavator off the track, and the walls covered with elaborate carvings and beautiful paintings depicting the life of the deceased, on down and along into the very depths of the earth, till finally you come to the real sarcophagus and in it lying the mummy of the king Amemphes or Seth or who’s ever tomb it happens to be.
Doesn’t it in a way seem wicked to be looking at him when he tried so hard to be hidden, especially when it was against his religion to be found? I think people should be satisfied to look only at the tomb, instead of having him not even in the mummy case, but opened to the public and even the clothes removed. Crowds of natives are busy everywhere excavating. Wouldn’t it be exciting to find wonderful jewels and gold ornaments and [] and such things right in the ground?
Mrs. Chandler got a cable from her brother-in-law saying she must come home immediately to sign some papers and settle some dispute that came up about the settling of her husband’s property, so she left yesterday and will sail in a couple of days. She was quite upset about going, and so disappointed to miss Greece and Turkey.
Lover wants to meet us in London, go home and marry me this summer, and take me back to Tien Tsin having his service there extended if possible, but I told him I didn’t think you would approve, and anyhow it’s best to stick to our former plans. Don’t you think so? In almost every letter he speaks of you, sends you his love and says something about what we’ll do when you visit us and what good times we’ll have.
Feb. 20 – I forgot to tell you that yesterday while coming down a hill at full gallop “Rameses” suddenly struck a stone and fell, and I shot over his head and slid on my tummy for about fifteen feet. The rest thought I was killed, but I wasn’t hurt a speck except having my breath rudely knocked out of me.
Today we sailed in a little boat several miles up the river, and had our lunch which we took with us in a beautiful orange grove where the trees were fairly laden with fruit. It is so lovely having the Gillis’s with us, for we have such fun doing everything together.
I had a letter from Sue Carter saying she had written me five letters and every one had been returned, but she was trying once more as she had been asking me in each one to be godmother to Suzanne, and now she was almost discouraged as the baby was a year old and hadn’t been christened yet. Her address is 111 Warren St., New Rochelle.
It is cooler here than anywhere we’ve been. Everyone is wearing suits and black shoes, something I haven’t done for over a year. Warm in the middle of the day, in fact on the desert sizzling, but at night quite chilly.
Address now is c/o U.S. Dispatch Agent, 4 Trafalgar Square, London.
Oceans of love,
Alice
Pillow Fight
NORDDEUTSCHER LLYOD BREMEN
DAMPFER LUTZONE
Sallie dearest:
This is our tenth day at sea and the time has simply flown. I haven’t done half the things I wanted to and can’t believe we are so near Port Said. Two days more. Tomorrow we hope to reach Suez. I have for a long time labored under the impression that people didn’t make a bit of difference to my state of mind, but I believe I’m only human after all, for this trip has seemed shorter than I ever thought any on the water could be, and I think it is all due to having such nice people as the Gillis’s to do things with and talk to or not have to talk to if I don’t feel like it.
I do hope sometime you can know them, for Mrs. G. is a dear and such fun. She reminds me so often of you: the funny little things she does and says – and she’s as pretty as a picture. Adelaide and I have been going to gym every morning for an hour before breakfast, then take our bath and dress and have breakfast and feel fine the rest of the day, till five o’clock when we have another hour of strenuous horse back, camel riding, weight lifting, etc. before dinner.
A very energetic Dutchman has made up an elaborate scheme for daily sports – had a programme printed and from 10:30 to 11:30 and 4:30 to 5:30 we indulge in sack races, pillow fights, swimming, stunts, etc.
Feb. 11 – Last night we had a fancy dress ball. Father made a wonderful Maharajah in full dress donated by Dorothy – a beautiful gold and scarlet silk and elaborate turban decorated with diamond pins and strings of pearls collected from Mrs. Gillis and some other people. Adelaide and Dorothy were his Hindu and Mohammedan wives in beautiful costumes they got in India. Mrs. Chandler was a sight as Topsey. I braided her hair in dozens of pigtails and blacked her face, and she wore awful looking clothes.
I went as a nun – wore a long, black satin coat of Mrs. G’s backwards. It had a wide collar effect over the shoulders so was just the thing, borrowed a black veil and used white linen handkerchiefs around my forehead and chin, and had a great long string of big, black beads. Headed by the band, we all walked twice around the deck – I at the last and all alone as modestly as possible. It was loads of fun and I took the prize, a lovely carved tortoise shell jewel box. I vowed I wasn’t going to dance, as it wasn’t fitting with my costume, but when an awfully good looking American who was dressed as a monk asked me I couldn’t resist, and found we had the floor to ourselves. Everyone had stopped to watch the novel sight.
Tonight the prizes were awarded for the sports. I got a lovely piece of Canton linen, a bureau cover, for driving a blindfolded man around a lot of bottles.
It was a year ago on the eighth that I [met] Lover. All this week we were in Baguio, and I [have] simply been living it all over again. It’s funny to read my diary and know how indifferent I was about it all. You remember when Lover was with us from Shanghai to Hongkong on the “Yorck”? Well this is a sister ship and exactly like her in every way. We even have the same stateroom, and every time I walk the deck I think of how we used to [] together and at every turn I expect to see him. It makes me so homesick for him I don’t know what to do. So many things come back to me, and I realize more than ever what good times we had together.
We are in the canal now – passed a Japanese steamer this morning and on board was a Japanese girl I went to school with at Miss Romey’s. We were close enough to call to each other. She is going to Cairo too, so will see her there. Wasn’t that an unusual thing to have happen?
Your last letter came just before we left Columbo. It is a dear. I’m so glad Mary is all right and you had such a happy Christmas. Lover sent me a list of our Canton china which had just arrived and includes everything you ever heard of, two big boxes which he won’t open till we do it together.
This is a picture I’ve meant to send before, taken in our car in India.
It is wonderful tonight, full moonlight and the desert is glorious – quite cold too, so cold that we’ve all appeared in coats and dark clothes. Hope to reach Port Said tomorrow, leave by train at one and arrive Cairo at five.
Goodnight, Sallie dear, I love you
Alice
Throw the Corsets in the Lake *****
The Anuradhapura Hotel
Anuradhapura, Ceylon
Shang dear,
We’ve been flitting around such a lot and so suddenly lately I can hardly remember all that has happened. After several lazy days in Kandy, just sitting on our little vine covered porch, and reading and talking and dreaming and occasionally walking around the lake, we set forth for Nuwara Eliya – 7000 ft. and lovely and cool, but it poured cats and dogs, so father didn’t like it.
Adelaide and I put on old dresses and went out walking one whole afternoon till we were soaked to the skin, but feeling fine. It was the first rain I had seen for so long I loved it, and should have enjoyed a week or more of it, for there were lovely little winding paths and dense jungles to explore, but we stayed only one day and then came back to Kandy, expecting to have some more lazy times, but a telegram was waiting for us saying we could get rooms in the Anuradhapura hotel, so we left in a rush, and now will be here a few days.
This is a wonderful place and I am surprised not more is known about it. At least I wouldn’t have known anything if I weren’t out here in these regions. It is the ruins of an ancient city dating back to 300 B.C. and said to have been the largest in the world, boasting over twenty million inhabitants all packed in like sardines. Very little has been done in the way of excavation or restoration, but it is all intensely interesting and most picturesque being covered with vines and all sorts of tropical growth.
This leaf is from the sacred Bo tree, the oldest historical tree known. Ever since it was planted 2400 years ago, it has been guarded by an unbroken succession of priests – and Buddha himself sat under it to teach.
Mrs. Gillis and Dorothy haven’t wanted to go any of these places, so are in Columbo having clothes made, etc. and Adelaide is now my sister. She is just as much a crank about exercise and physical culture, etc. as I am so we have lots in common. I’ve almost decided to abandon my corsets. Down deep in my heart I never have approved of them, but not long ago I read a dreadful discourse on that subject, and now I’m wondering if I have strength of mind to really throw them in the lake. For a whole week I’ve gone without, and am doing all sorts of new exercises and hope in a month or two to be as hard as iron around my waist and hips.
I’ve just finished two fine books and wonder if you’ve read them. Price Collier’s “The West in the East” and “England and the English”. If you haven’t, do get them for they would be fine read aloud, especially the latter you would enjoy for he is very fair, states facts rather than criticizes and has such a “pat” way of expressing things we all know, but I at least had never thought them out so clearly.
Never in my life have I seen so much tea as is grown on this island. Everywhere you look the hills are covered with straight, regular rows of tea bushes, and the whole place dotted with men and women pickers in bright colored head dress and baskets on their back.
Later – didn’t get this finished, for we suddenly decided to come back to Kandy, where the hotel is splendid. We had enough of mosquitos, lowlands, etc. at Anuradhapura – the only means of transportation being bullock carts – little, springless, two wheeled affairs with palm leaf hood[s] and so called trotting bullocks, but from the strenuous clucking, prodding, tail twisting and yelling that the driver did I don’t think the trotting was natural.
We shall probably stay here till Friday, go down to Columbo, and I want to have a tailor make me some sort of a silk dress or suit, if he can do it in so short a time, for on Sunday we sail for Cairo. Father seems awfully tired. I think it is the reaction after our strenuous times in India, for here there is practically no real sight seeing. So I’m urging him to stay here as long as we can, for he likes it so much better than Columbo, and my dress I can go without if we don’t get there in time.
There is a man here has the dearest little pet leopard just five months old. Its head and paws are still too big for it, and it is as playful as a kitten – chews up everything in sight, but is perfectly gentle and lets anyone take it in their arms.
Adelaide and I are off for a long walk now before it gets dark.
Heaps of Love,
Alice
January 26, 1914
Flavored with Cinders
Hotel Suisse1
Kandy, Ceylon
Telegrams – Suisotel
Sallie dearest:
We just came up here this morning. It’s four hours by train from Columbo, much cooler and very tropical and lovely. Mrs. C. had to wait for a package she was expecting from Bombay and Mrs. Gillis and Dorothy didn’t want to leave so soon, so father and Adelaide and I came and simply love it. Hope to stay four or five days, and then go on up to Nuwara Eliya (pronounced New Arailia). This hotel is splendid and we are right on the lake where at sunset all the elephants go to bathe and drink.
Our last few days in India were hot and dusty, but busy seeing the temple at [Wadura], which I think is the most worthwhile thing to see in all southern India. We were still living in a car, so I was glad to know it was nearly over, but in [a] way sorry to feel that we had finished India. It is such a big country, so important and such a lot “doing” there that this place seems more like a toy. We bade a tearful farewell to Abdul at Tuticorin, where we took the steamer and had a desperately rough trip over to Columbo, so I was more glad to see it and the fine big hotel right on the beach with real bath tubs and good food. Sardines, crackers, canned soup and cheese are all right for a while, but it doesn’t take long before such a diet grows monotonous, especially when flavored with cinders and nearly jerked off your lap with every jolt of the car.
I got a pretty blue satin afternoon gown, quite plain as to trimming but with a prettily draped skirt and rather good lines, except that it is bunchy around the hips, which I hate but I suppose I’ll have to get used to it as everyone seems to look the same.
A dear letter from you was waiting for me, written at Mary’s shortly after Thanksgiving, a lovely Maltese lace sort of scarf from Mrs. Wiegenstein, and several handkerchiefs from different people. I sent Mrs. W. not long ago some dear little camels, elephants, etc. beautifully carved out of sandal wood. I thought they would make lovely dinner favors. She entertains such a lot, and so cleverly, although she has very little to do with way down in Batangas that I thought she could work them in beautifully – inviting people to the animal fair, have a little “jungle” scene for the centerpiece, etc.
I hope you will sometime meet Adelaide Gillis, for she is one of the finest girls I ever knew – just my age and most attractive, although different from the usually attractive type in that she is rather quiet, perfectly natural and simple, sweet but with lots behind her. You know what I mean. We have been together practically for four months and will be till we reach Europe, probably. They live in Los Angeles, but have a ranch where they spend most of their time. She has twenty very fine horses, raises them and expects soon to have her own ranch. She has taken the first prize over all the horses in California for the last two years, but you would never dream it, for she is not the ordinary type of horsey woman that you picture.
It is lots of fun having her with us, and we have so much in common and so many of the same ideas that we don’t get tired of being together.
Lover is safely back from his tiger hunt, but minus the tiger as it was so cold and snowy they couldn’t get up into the mountains, but got lots of small game in the foothills.
Isn’t it too bad that John wouldn’t stick to it and make good at Culver?2
We want to go home on the George Washington. We have to go on the [?] D. L. you see, and she is the best of that line. We just found out that she sails on May 31st, so tell Shang to plan the menu and include barrels of lettuce. Think of it, I haven’t had a mouthful of lettuce for over a year! We sail on the first of February for Egypt. It takes eleven days. Father told you, I suppose, that we want Arthur and Margaret3 to meet us there. Had one cable saying it was uncertain, but they had written. However, we’ve received no letter and don’t know what will happen, but I do hope they can come.
Oceans of love,
Alice
January 15, 1914
1 http://www.ceylonhotels.lk/suisse.html In business in 2009.
2 Culver Camp in Indiana
3 Her brother and sister-in-law
Circus Troup
Jan 4
Montgomery’s Hotel1
Hyderabad Deccan.
Sallie dearest:
I feel just like a circus troup. We are living on the train and have been all week, except two nights at Hyderabad. We left Bombay and found that we had to change at such unearthly hours of the night that we asked them if we couldn’t have a car or rather two – each one has two compartments and two baths, so the Gillis’ have one, Mrs. C. and I one, father and the servants each one. So now they just drop us off wherever we want to stop. If it is in the middle of the night, then we can just sleep on and have breakfast when we feel like it, and then do our sightseeing and be hitched on again to the next train.
I don’t believe I have ever discoursed to you about Dak bungalows, have I? Well, all over Burma and India there are little houses, a dining room, living room and four or five bedrooms with baths where anyone can go and stay all night, a care taker who will heat water for you and a stove, also plates and pans, etc. In so many of these small towns there is no hotel, so the Dak bungalow is most convenient – although we must take our own bedding, food, etc. However this car arrangement is even better for we are more independent. Sometimes there are refreshment rooms in the stations, but generally we cook our own things. We found at such times the servants were rather in the way, so now we take turns getting the meals. Mrs. C. and Dorothy one time, and Adelaide & I the next. All the preparing and cooking takes place in the bathroom, so the menu is always a surprise to the rest, and we manage to have pretty good but not elaborate meals. Everything “turned” of course except fresh fruit, which we always have piles of. Last night we gave them hot tomato soup, creamed salmon and peas, asparagus salad, canned pears, crackers & cheese, and nuts. Now I know just how a porter at home in a dining car feels, and I certainly shouldn’t like to be one all my life.
We spent a couple of days at the caves of Ellora. They aren’t really caves, but wonderful temples carved out of huge masses of rock, not built piece by piece but just cut right there out of the solid rock just as it stood. They really are marvelous, and although they were done hundreds of years ago, they are still perfectly preserved. There is an interesting old fort there too where we walked miles and miles up and down steps, through underground passages, over walls, and up to the tops of towers till I was ready to drop.
We were at Hyderabad for father’s birthday, so gave him a surprise party. In the center of the table we had a Hindu begging bowl filled with poinsettias and red ribbons leading from it with silly but appropriate Indian toys for each person, which they pulled out during dinner. It is such a small place that we could get very little, but fortunately I had a delicious almond paste cake very gaily iced, and candles made in Bombay with his initials and date on top, so brought that with me. I tried to have everything he likes, and for salad I cut long papayas in two, chopped up the centers with mayonnaise, and stuck in each a sail with the “Albatross”1 written on it, and in the mast a little admiral’s flag I made of blue ribbon and white court plaster stars. We had red bonbon crackers to pull with camels and elephants on, and Mrs. Gillis gave us each such cunning little figures of Indian men, the washman, coachman, policeman, etc. all in their characteristic dress & turban. For place cards I drew albatrosses with spread wings and cut them out, and Mrs. C. made up an appropriate verse for each of us. Father was very much surprised, and seemed to enjoy it.
Did I tell you about the beautiful rugs they make in Peking and TienTsin? Lover just told me he is having six beauties made for me. Three 9 x 12, two in Delft blue and white, one dark red for his den; two 7 x 9 very oriental looking, and one smaller of the very best weave. There are three qualities. Most people get the second or third, as the first is more like that silky kind that can be used on the wall or piano or table, but I’ll be glad to have one of that kind. He and Punk and Dick were just starting off on a tiger hunt in [Shansi] Province, and now I’m worried for fear there’ll be a smile on the face of the tiger.
In Shang’s last letter she enclosed a letter to me from a girl in Australia saying she had sent me 120 rabbits tails remembering a remark I made that I should love to have some, so perhaps they are home now. In a very unconcerned way [we] said she wanted to send me more but had cured them herself, and in the midst of it went out to play polo – her pony fell and threw her on her head, so that she knocked a hole clean through her skull and was unconscious for two weeks, no one expecting her to live. The day she wrote me was the first day she’d been allowed to use her eyes, as one was stone blind from the fall, although the doctors said it would get all right in time. She was a most attractive girl, and I do hope she’ll be well soon. Wasn’t it sweet of her to remember me?
Yes, angel, I’m glad you told Mrs. Farrow about taking out the linen. You can do whatever you choose about telling people I’m engaged. At first I didn’t want it known, but now I’ve got so used to the fact myself that is seems different, and of course when I do get home people will see my ring. However I don’t think it need be heralded abroad, but if someone does ask you, say whatever you think is best, for I know it will be right. How people know it I can’t imagine, but every now and then I get letters from people in the Philippines remarking about it.
In a way this living in the car is fun for awhile, but I shall be glad to get to a hotel and be able to move around and not have everything fall on the floor whenever I lay it down; the juggling and dust are the worst part of all.
It was nice for you to go to Hudson and I’m anxious to hear about it. The other night at a dinner my partner was a man from Franklin, a Mr. Stickler, Standard Oil man, wasn’t that queer?
Heaps of love,
Alice.
January 4, 1914
Address c/o U.S. Consul, Cairo , Egypt.
1 Still in business 2009
1 The name of his flag-ship. Remember his name is Admiral Albert Ross. The ship used in the motion picture “White Squall” bore the name Albatross.
Bombay: the Real Destination *****
Taj Mahal Palace Hotel1
Bombay
Telegraphic Address
“Palace-Bombay”
Sallie dearest:
I must write today not only because it is Christmas, but to tell you I love you and how happy I was to get your letter and Shang’s that I found waiting here for me.
We got here a day sooner than we expected as we couldn’t stand Ahmedebad. It was an awful place – dreadful hotel and nothing to see, and now I wish we had a month here instead of a little over a week. All through India I’ve had Bombay in mind as the real destination for this part of the trip anyhow, and now we have [let] down completely and are not seeing one single “sight” and you can’t imagine how good it seems for we have been going as strenuously as anyone could – packing up nearly every day – getting in late at night by train and up early next morning to set forth to see everything.
Now I feel that we have “done” India. There is nothing more I care to see, and it is now time to take a steamer in order to straighten out in my mind all we’ve seen. However we are by no means resting here very strenuous, only in another direction. There has been something on hand nearly every minute, and I am trying in between teas and dinners, etc. to find a few clothes.
Sallie, I’m a sight. If you could see me, you’d disown me but the funny part is I don’t seem to care. In a vague way I want some pretty things, but when it comes to the actual getting, I’d rather go without. It’s such an effort. Mrs. C. and I did get to work and tried to weed out our things and sent a big basket full of dresses, shoes etc. to some missionaries.
Major Dickinson of the English army and who was so nice to us in Calcutta is now here and put father up at the Yacht Club, which is one of the loveliest clubs I’ve ever seen, right on the water and beautifully equipped. I go over often in the mornings, when no one is around to disturb my peace of mind and try to catch up on the papers and magazines. We’ve had dinner there several times, and tea every day. Major D. is one of the most attractive men I’ve ever known, and has heaps of money. He had us to dinner at his apartment Christmas Eve and four other officers, and wherever he is, a party is sure to be successful. He had heard me mention some Russian ice cream I liked, so thought he would have it for me and mixed the cream and strawberries with his own hands at the risk of losing all caste with his servants (one thing you must all consider out here). The cook insisted that it wouldn’t freeze unless he made it another way, but Major D. clung to his own idea, assuring him it would come in like a rock. We heard all this tale during dinner, so eagerly awaited results and imagine his dismay when it did come in resembling soup. However the blazing plum pudding and holly made up for the failure.
Later – was interrupted so couldn’t finish till now.
Christmas dinner here at the hotel was very gay. The dining room beautifully decorated, good music and menu a mile long. We had Major D., some others and the Gillis and gave each a cunning little brass peacock for a favor. For place cards we cut silly pictures from magazines and stuck them on cards with characteristic remarks of each person, so that they had to guess where they sat. Father’s had a man with umbrella and coat tails flying, tearing along at breakneck speed, clock at 3:30 “Next train 5:00. We’ll have to hustle, Kiddie, or we’ll never make it.”
Mrs. C. has been having awful nightmares of late and shrieks wildly in her sleep for me so I used that idea for hers, etc. Each one recognized their little weaknesses and easily found the proper seat. Lots of other foolishness, so we had a good time, but I thought all day what a glorious time we shall have next year!
Father gave me a very odd Hindu ring with two sapphires and little dangling pearls, and a lovely big book on India, taking in every place we’ve been. Mrs. C. a lovely, very old, Indian painting and a little silver filagree thing that the Mohammedan women carry their eye blackening in. I had a ring made for her with an old, small gold coin – Hindu. The coin turns over and is better done than I dared hope for, but she seems very much pleased with it. Also a big, metal bowl from Peshawar that she wanted. For father I got in Siam a stick pin with a gold tical at the top (it is a little gold ball with some characters engraved and is a piece of money worth about four dollars. He got silver ticals for buttons in his white coat, so I got some cuff links to match for his birthday. Mrs. C. gave him a lovely old painting of Akbar, who was a famous emperor here three hundred years ago, and son of Shah Jehan who built the Taj Mahal. Akbar did much to beautify all India, and has put up elaborately carved structures all over the country, so father was very much interested in him and always talking about him. I gave the Gillis each an interesting old piece of brass, and they all gave me lovely things. So you see we had quite a celebration after all.
We’ve been to the Admiral’s to lunch today. I am going motoring with the Major now and later we all meet for tea at the Club, and then we go to the Consul’s tonight to dinner. This is a sample of all our days, and although as you know I don’t like such a program as a rule, it seems rather nice for a while just now.
Lover writes that Mrs. Pierce, wife of Major P. in Tien Tsin is just going to Canton, so he is having her get a whole set of the real Canton china, a dozen extra dinner plates, punch bowl and everything. Isn’t that fine. When I was in Tien Tsin Mrs. Pierce asked me to get her some, so Lover and I selected it and he took it back to her. Isn’t it funny that now she is getting ours for us. They are having it packed and it won’t be opened till Lover brings it to me.
Oh, Angel, I was in an awful state. Mrs. C. was really hurt about Mr. Wallenberg’s acting as he did, and when I got here and found telegrams still begging to come for Xmas and motor us through southern India, I pictured dreadful times trying to sooth her, amuse and entertain Mr. W. and keep father happy as well. It would have been dreadful, I know although I can’t understand her point of view, for I certainly didn’t set about definitely to take him away from her. I didn’t even want him, but I did want him to fall in love with her. Then all would have been fine. However after all my worrying and wondering in silence a telegram came a few days ago saying that there had been a bad smash up with some of his oil wells up in Assam, so he had to go up and couldn’t meet us. I wanted to shout for joy, for although it could have been a beautiful trip, I know under the circumstances, it would have been very trying for poor me.
Now we shall go on prosaically but cheerfully by train. Don’t think Mrs. C. has been mean about it, for she has been just as sweet and agreeable as possible, but I know down deep she was cut to the heart as she once confessed to me; although she said she was dreadfully ashamed to have such a selfish feeling.
Father has been ill in bed- tummy knocked out and nothing to keep him going in the way of sights – just the way he is every Xmas at home- but I’m glad to say is better now, although still not very well.
Oceans of love,
Alice
1 In business 2009 http://www.tajhotels.com/Palace/The%20Taj%20Mahal%20Palace%20&%20Tower,MUMBAI/default.htm
Kipling
Rajputana Hotel
Mount Abu, December 18, 1913
Dear Shang:
This is a most wonderful place, way off the beaten track for tourists, but famed for temples said to be the most celebrated in all India, and I can well believe it for such elaborate carving I have never seen, although not nearly so pleasing to me as lots of others I’ve seen. The skill and labor expended impress one rather than the beauty. Father is sending you a little pamphlet giving a poor description of these temples, but excellent illustrations.
I’ve been reading Kipling every spare minute and appreciate him a thousand times more than I ever did before. One always enjoys books more when one knows the places where the scenes are laid, but the life out here is so entirely different that I think until you’ve been here much is lost out of his stories, especially as he writes so intimately about it all, supposing that everyone knows it as well as he does.
Have you read “From Sea to Sea”? If not let’s read it together when we get home, because he went to so many of the places we have been, but knocks America terribly. The rest is very amusing. He loves Burma and in one place near there has to drive in a “tonga” many miles. I found it most appropriate for reading after we arrived here, since we had to drive in one twenty miles straight up the side of a rock, and his graphic description is certainly accurate – not in the least exaggerated.
We spent several days at Waypur – the most purely native place we’ve been. The Maharajah has several beautiful palaces there. One is on a tiny island in the center of a lake and with the glistening white walls, graceful minarets, and slender pillars, it is very picturesque.
Along the country roads here grow great clumps of brilliant poinsettias which add lovely touches of color to the otherwise dry and dusty desert. Peacocks strut around wild everywhere too, and all night long the jackals keep up an earsplitting chorus of yells and almost human screams. One place they had no room for us at the so called hotel and had to put Mrs. C. and me into one tent. In the middle of the night a huge water buffalo strolled in and sniffed at Mrs. C. She was simply terrified, but I didn’t know anything about it till next morning.
These pictures1 I’ve been intending to send for a long time. I thought you would like to see them, and then will you stow them safely away for me. Not that they are particularly beautiful, but when I’m old and bent I feel that I shall be able to have a good laugh over them and remember all the incidents connected with them.
Lover had a new Infantry cape made in Tien Tsin, and said they did it so well that he had one made for me too – just like his – isn’t that fine! I’m making such wonderful plans for things we can do when we get home. You can take long walks with me then, can’t you and from Sallie’s reports you’ll have me as a cooking pupil.
Heaps of love
Alice
Address U.S. Consul
Cairo, Egypt
1 an envelope of postcards with Alice’s notes on the back
